The main secret of a beautiful fastener lies ... on a board surface. And then what is the selection of the product? Let's get it together.
The sides of the product are the edges of the most common fastener. They are always made of two layers of fabric, so on the wrong side of the product the front side of the fabric is visible - this inner part is called picking. What will be the collar depends on the shape of the bead and on the consumption of fabric. To give the edge of the clasp more strength, the underboard is usually duplicated by a gasket.
Sewing school: duplication of clothing items
Types of Picks
1-piece collar
The bead cut with the board is called solid. Such a collar is always cut out with the board if the board has straight sections and if this does not increase the consumption of fabric.
In the pattern, the line along which the underboard is turned to the wrong side is always designated as “underboard”.
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A stitched subboard
Such a subboard acts as an independent part. The bead is cut separately and stitched to the board if the board has beveled or rounded sections and if the fabric consumption does not allow cutting out a one-piece bead.
For a stitched selection, there is either a separate pattern, or it is given directly on the pattern of the shelf part, and it must be reshaped from the shelf part as a separate part.
A stitched collar can be partly whole-cut and partly stitched at the same time: the upper part of the set is stitched, and the lower, as a rule, is all-cut.
In addition, the stitched collar can be completely composite - of two, less often of three parts, when there is simply not enough fabric to cut out the entire part.
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Double-Fold
Usually such a collar is found in blouses and shirts.
In the pattern, a double width is added to the front edge of the bead. In the middle of the selection, the “fold” line is indicated. In this case, the subboard must be twisted twice. Therefore, when sewing blouses and other products from light fabrics, the gasket for strengthening the fit can not be used.
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Sewing school: finishing stitch
Important: they cut off the sides only after processing the bottom of the product, since the sub-board always lies on top of the allowance for the bottom hem.
Photo: BurdaStyle.ru
