If the neckline wrinkles

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So, the upper part of the figure is narrower than the standard. For the stitched model to fit perfectly in the figure, you need to fix the basic pattern!

This is easy enough to do.
Sew a trial model from calico or other cheap fabric. Pin the excess width with pins in the shape of a wedge directed to the top of the tuck (see figure).

Perfect fit: the neckline should not wrinkle. Stitch excess pleat width
Now adjust the paper pattern
Cut the pattern detail from the neckline to the top of the tuck and exactly along the line of the middle of the tuck. Connect the edges of the cut from the neck to the top of the tuck with a wedge, as in the trial model. Due to this, the tuck will deepen a little (see. Figure).

Align the "step" at the neckline.
If the model’s embossed seam passes through the top of the chest, stab the excess wedge-shaped width in the direction of the embossed seam. Then cut the detail of the pattern from the neckline to the embossed seam and accordingly connect the edges of the incision in the form of a wedge ending at the embossed seam.
Photo: Bassermann Verlag / Beate Bremze, Ruth Rayman, Elke Trier-Schäfer, Heidemar Tengler-Stadelmeier.
The material was prepared by Elena Karpova.

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